Seville

This city is amazing! If there was one city in Europe I would move to it would be Seville. It is the perfect size; it isn't a large city, but isn't too small either. The people are so friendly, the food is fantastic, and there are endless things to do. If you are lucky enough to be in Seville towards the end of April, do not miss the Feria de Abril! This happens two weeks after Easter, and runs for a week. The best description I have heard for it is that it is like being in a time warp. The city shuts down, everyone dresses in their best flamenco dresses and suits, and the streets are filled with a party. Seriously Americans, we have been doing 4th of July wrong this whole time. The Sevillians really know how to celebrate a tradition and throw a party.

Where is it: Seville is in Southern Spain, in the the Andalucia region.

Getting there: Seville is another popular transportation hub, and is probably most easily accessible by train or bus if you are already in Spain. The airport is smaller so connections might be more difficult. We came from Heathrow and were surprised there wasn't a direct flight. We had to make a connection through Madrid, but hopefully the airport you are coming from will have a direct flight option. Always a good site when trying to figure out how to get somewhere is goeuro.com.

Things to do:
Bull fighting museum: I knew before I left I didn't want to see a bullfight; however, I respected that this was a tradition in the culture and was interested in learning more about it...from afar. I wanted to know the history behind this tradition and get a feeling for what it was like. This tour was the perfect combination of that. We purchased our tickets on site, and told the cashier that we wanted the English tour. Our tour guide was fantastic, giving the tour both in Spanish and English. She would let the non-Spanish speakers quietly look around while she explained to the others, then when it was time for the English portion, we would switch. She did a fantastic job explaining the tradition, the different bullfighters, and the famous bulls. The best part was when you get to go outside and see the ring close up. It is so bright and colorful that it seems like a piece of artwork itself. The tour was approximately 20 minutes, and the cost of a ticket was 8 euros. The location is Paseo de Cristobal Colon, close to the water.

Barrio Santa Cruz and Flamenco show: Another culture experience is the Barrio Santa Cruz and seeing a flamenco show. Now a tourist area, it previously was the Jewish quarter of the city. This neighborhood has seen tough times as Jews were expelled and persecuted in the 1400s. In the 18th century the synagogue that was close by was remodeled into the now Church of Bartholomew. It is a great place to stroll and enjoy the town. As it is a tourist attraction, the restaurants are hit or miss, but there are certainly some great eats here! (see below) Also if you are interested, this is one of the best places to catch a traditional Seville flamenco show. We went to La Casa del Flamenco and really enjoyed our experience. There are only two rows of chairs, which allows you to have an up close experience. There is traditionally someone outside a few hours before a show who will give you a tour and explanation of the dances that will be performed.

Real Alcazar and Gardens: Get ready to come with a packed lunch as it seems this site never ends! This truly could be an all day event as there is so much to see and take in. This fort was originally built in the 10th century by the Moors, as you will see their artistic influence throughout the palace. This gives you a feeling and impression of the Alhambra Palace. The site was owned by the Romans for awhile after they conquered the Moors in 712, and then officially became the Spanish palace in 1248, when Fernando III conquered the city. More construction began by the Spaniards, and is largely what we see today. This site is still used as the Royal Palace of the Spanish family, and became a World Heritage Site in 1987.

I would skip the audioguide and look up some interesting facts before visiting. The space is so large that you will start to get tired of listening to all the different checkpoints, and probably remember 10% of what you heard. It is better to walk around and just enjoy the beauty of the architecture and gardens. A general admission ticket costs 9.50 euros; however, the site is free on Monday afternoons.
















Church of the Savior: If you haven't gotten your fill on churches, you will want to visit this one as some consider it even better than the Seville Cathedral. However, if your getting sick of religious sites this is one you can skip. This church began as many do in Spain, being built on top of a previous mosque. Works were done to change the mosque to be a Christian religious site, and was later decided to tear down the whole site and build a new. The new construction and largely what we see today was done in the 18th century. Inside you will see 14 altarpieces and a gorgeous dome.

A cool tip is you can buy a joint ticket for this site and the Seville Cathedral and save a couple of dollars. The ticket for the Cathedral, bell tower, and this Church is 8 euros, so essentially you will get the Church of the Savior for free. If you just want to visit this location, the ticket is 3 euros. The church's address is Pl. del Salvador, 41004 Sevilla, Spain.

Seville Cathedral and Giralda: Also registered a World Heritage Site in 1987, this cathedral was finished in 1507. It was built on top of the former mosque. The previous mosque was built in the 1200 century and was used by the Moors, who occupied Seville at the time. When Ferdinand III took over, one of his first orders was to change the mosque to be better situated for Christians. This included building walls to divide the space into separate chapels.  In 1401 it was decided that the whole mosque structure needed to be torn down, and a new cathedral should be built. Luckily the original minaret was kept since it was converted into a bell tower. When you are in the site, you can walk up the original slope to the top of the tower for some fantastic views.

Tickets for both the cathedral and bell tower are 8 euros, but is free with a Sevilla Card. Check out more on the Sevilla card; we found that it didn't help us save any money and it was more economical to purchase the sites separately. The location of the church is close to the Barrio Santa Cruz at Av. de la Constitucion.

Plaza de Espana and Parque de Maria Luisa: The Plaza de Espana is a place you can go with little to no historical knowledge and enjoy just as much as the rest of the folks there. So if you are getting a little tired of packing your brain with knowledge, take a break and visit this park and plaza. The park originated first in 1911 to be a public park for all to enjoy. The plaza was built in 1928 for the World's Fair that was a year later. The purpose was to be a showcase for historical moments throughout Spain, hence the name. When walking around you will see tiles that have events and dates. Some fun facts are that several movies have been filmed here, including Star Wars, Lawrence of Arabia, and The Dictator. The plaza is located at Av de Isabel la Catolica, and make sure you enjoy a walk throughout the different sections of the park.

Metropol Parasol: This site could be another great break from historical data if you are in the need. This wooden structure was built in 2011 with some controversy. You will notice that it has a very modern look, which was not accepted by most of the locals. While construction was in process, the workers found ruins below that are believed to be back from the Moorish and Roman reign. This stopped construction and permits and other necessary paperwork was needed to complete the building. You can visit the ruins below, but the main highlight is going up the elevator to take in the views of the city. You will walk along ramps throughout the structure to see for miles. I would suggest visiting during "happy hour," as your elevator ticket includes a free drink at the top, where you can sit and enjoy the sun setting over the city.

Plaza Nueva: We have heard a lot about King Ferdinand III, who took over the city of Seville in 1248. Well if you want to meet him, make sure you visit Plaza Nueva. This area once was the site for a convent that was occupied from 1270 - 1840. Now a plaza, there is the town hall, the Hotel Inglaterra, and a statue of King Ferdinand III. This plaza is used for peaceful protests outside the townhall and for dances. It is a fun place to visit and people watch. You don't have to spend a lot of time here, and once you've had your fill, venture off for some of the best tapas bars. (see below)

Triana: Triana is a neighborhood right across the Isabel II bridge over the Guadalquivir River. It is known for its great food, fun farmers market, and fantastic pottery shops. You can go for more historical sites and monuments as there are many; however, I found Triana as a breath of fresh air where I can go experience the Seville culture. Make sure you got to the Mercado de Triana and graze from vendor to vendor picking out your favorite food. Then explore the streets right over the Isabel II bridge, popping in to look at all the pottery. I found the prices to be very reasonable here, and it is a great place to get souvenirs for yourself or others. If you have the energy and capacity for more history, look into going to the Moorish Revival Chapel, Church of Santa Ana, and Spanish Inquisition museum.

Feria de Abril: I cannot say enough how much I love the Fair in Seville. It was truly a once in lifetime experience that I think back on weekly. It begins two weeks after the Holy Week (Easter), and runs for a week. It begins with a parade of the must beautiful carriages taking people in traditional dress throughout the streets to the bullring. At the fairgrounds there are rows of casetas, which are tents for families and friends. You have to be invited inside, but once you are you can partake in the dancing, drinking of the traditional drink rebuijto, and laughter. The whole time, there are carriages and horses riding around the fairground taking in the different parties. This is a grand way of showing off your dress and wealth (as these are very expensive to rent), but this is quickly forgotten once you are on one. We were lucky enough to be invited on, and the view and experience of being in a carriage is amazing. Once you have had our fill of casetas, you can venture further back in the fairgrounds for rides and traditional fair food. Once you are done, head back to party late into the night and repeat all over again the next day. Several businesses are closed during this time so you might want to be in Seville a little before or after to be able to enjoy the full experience of the city.










Flamenco Dance Museum: If you are in love with flamenco and the dresses as much as me, this is a must see. Shows are available here as well, and allows the opportunity to see some famous performers. Check out the website for more details on the upcoming performances. The museum itself offers an interactive experience that brings together the dance, singing, and guitar and allows a deeper understanding of the art. To visit the museum is 10 euros, but to both visit the museum and see a show is 24 euros. If you are already considering doing both this might be the best package for you!

Must Eat:

• La Corona: tapas bar near Plaza Nueva
• Becerrita: tapas bar near Plaza Nueva
• Mamarracha: tapas bar near Plaza Nueva
• Bodega Santa Cruz: in Barrio Santa Cruz, great for tapas and a fun experience!
• Pepe Hillo: close to the bullring and known by locals for having the best ox tail, a Seville delicacy

Suggested Stay: The Hotel Inglaterra is mentioned above and is an over 100 year old, 4 star hotel. If you are looking for that authentic experience, this could be it for you! However, Seville is a larger city and has plenty of AirBNB options that are great if you are travelling with groups.

Alhambra Palace Walking Tour

The different parts of Alhambra can be confusing. Which sections require a ticket, which can you see for free, and what is the exact part of Alhambra of this picture you are looking at? I put together a walking tour with all the different parts highlighted to understand what exactly you should be looking for and some brief historical points for each. This walking tour requires some backtracking to get to the admission gate, but I like to get to the free section early and see all the sights before they fill up with tourist. Then I head to the admissions gate and get started on the ticket required sites. This may have to be adjusted based on your Nasrid Palace entry times and preferred amount of walking.

Walking through the "Puerta de las Granadas" and up the hill to the walking path to Puerta de la Justicia. This will take you to Puerta del Vino

Puerta del Vino: As you may have guessed, this stands for "The Wine Gate" and is one of the oldest monument of Alhambra. When walking through the gate, try to imagine the busy market that used to be here. The chattering of people going about their day, and the animals being herded back and forth. You have finally entered Alhambra!

Just past Puerta del Vino is a viewpoint that overlooks the Albaicin area. This is a great time to take a picture and take everything in. Walk through Puerta del Vino toward...

Palacio de Carlos V: The building was ordered to begin in 1527 by Carols V. This was to be supposed to be the family's primary home, as their summer residences were too small. The construction of this palace had it's struggles and disputes, so much that the ceiling collapsed. Walk around and the up the stairs to get a the overall view of the palace. Also take a peek inside the museum to see some of the magnificent doorways that were in the Nasrid Palace. (Museum is 1.50 Euros for non-EU citizens.)

Continuing up the pathway (to the left after exiting the Palacio de Carlos V) you will run into...

Saint Mary of Alhambra Church: This church was built over the site of the Great Mosque that resided until 1581, when the construction of the church began. Take a step in and remember the inordinate amount of gold and jewels, which is in contrast of the Nasrid Palace.

Arab Baths: In the baths it is hard to imagine that this was once a place the king would gather to relax and do what kings did at that time. However this most likely resembled a Roman bath with a hot, cold, and steam room.

Continue up the path, making sure to cross the street and see the replica of what is the modern day medina of Alhambra. The path will take you to...

Parador de Granada: If you are lucky enough to stay at this hotel, please leave a comment below sharing your experience! I'm jealous! Here is the most famous, and expensive hotel in all of Granada. This particular Parador is famed for being the original burial place for Isabel and Ferdinand. They were buried here while the construction of the Royal Chapel of Granada was being built. 

Now you will have to turn around and make your way to the admission gate. 

Gardens: After entering the admission gate you will walk along a beautiful gardens. The hedges and shrubs along the paths are to replicate the old ruins that have been destroyed over time. Take lots of pictures, and enjoy the fact that you are walking towards one of the greatest historical sites in the world!

As you walk along you will find yourself passing the Parador, bathes, and going through the Puerta del Vino to enter the...

Alcazaba: This is believed to be built before the Muslims conquered Granada; however, the Moors definitely used it to their advantage, prolonging the Spaniards requisition of Alhambra. There are three towers: the Broken Tower, the Keep, and the Watch Tower. Clamber along the steps and take in the breathtaking views of Granada. If you have the energy walk up the Watch Tower, see the four flags flying and bell. There is a flag for Spain, Granada, Andalucia, and Alhambra. It is tradition that if you are a single women and ring the bell at the top of the tower, you will be married before the year end. Typically the bell is ringing all day!

Now it is the moment you have been waiting for! Exit out of the Alcazaba and get in line for the...

Nasrid Palace: A ticket is needed to enter this part, and you will be provided with a specific hour of entry time. Don't miss your entry as the rules are pretty strict due to the popularity of this site. Another, maybe odd tip, is to use the bathroom before entering. There is a lot of running water and no bathrooms inside the exhibit; not the greatest combination for someone who needs to go.

The Palace is immense, and it is important to keep in mind the three main areas . The Mexuar, the Comares Palace, and Palacio de los Leones were all built by different rulers and have their own impressions and themes. The Mexuar is believe to be the oldest portion of the Nasrid Palace and has gone through several restorations.  The purposes of this part of the palace has changed with the different rulers; however, is believe to first be used as the original Nasrid Palaces.

In the Comares you will find the residence of the kings, Yusuf I and Mohammed V, which is heavily decorated with Islamic calligraphy. The writing you see on the walls is "There is no victor but Allah" repeated which was to remind the occupants to be humble and devout.

The Palacio de los Leones is an extension to the Palace done by the Mohammed V. This area has several Christian influences and is a symbolism of the friendly relations the Muslims and Christians had during this time. A further example of the friendly times are the 12 lions you see in the courtyard. These were a gift from a Jewish leader who wanted to celebrate the cordial relationship with the Moors.

Exiting the Nasrid Palace you will turn left and follow the signs to the Generalife...

Generalife: Just when you think Alhambra couldn't possibly deliver any more beauty, you make the corner into the Generalife. Following a path of fragrant roses you start to get the feeling you are in for something good. This was built in the 13th century, making it older than the Comares portion of the Nasrid Palace. Even more phenomenal, is the irrigation system that was built to water the garden and deliver the source for the magnificent fountains. The Moors designed the system to pull water up from the Rio Darro and provide water throughout the entire site.

The gardens are also rumored to be the site where a member of a rival family was caught courting one of the king's wife. It is believe the king, Muhammad X, was so furious that he beheaded 36 members of this family. Most likely this was done for political and power reasons; however, it is not hard to believe that a forbidden romance happened on these grounds.

Once you have exited the Generalife you are close to the exit. However, feel free to retrace your steps and revisit your favorite part of Alhambra. I think a great way to finish and remember the day is going  back to the rose garden (it is also close), sitting down, and discussing what an amazing day you just had.

Granada

I'm not sure if it is the magic of the city or that you are in the shadow of the Alhambra Palace, but this city never fails to bring a smile to my face. The people are warm, there are dances on the street, and you can have a romantic dinner with the most breathtaking view.  The obvious main attraction for Granada is Alhambra, but there is so much more to the city; don't miss it!

Where is it: Granada is in Southern Spain, in the the Andalucia region.



Getting there: Granada can be accessed easily by bus or train from most cities, specifically Seville, Madrid and Barcelona. If coming from Madrid or Barcelona, consider taking a flight as it can save you some time and be comparable in price. A great search engine to get you started in the logistics is goeuro.com.

Things to do:
Alhambra: This post is to focus on what there is to do in Granada outside of the Alhambra Palace. Click here for more on Alhambra.

Madrasah of Granada: If you're wanting more of the amazing Islamic calligraphy and want a peek of what the palaces in Alhambra looked like back in the day, this is the location for you! The Madrasah of Granada, which is part of the University of Granada, is home of some of the original facade done by Yusuf I. What makes this facade so important is that it still obtains some of the original paint and decoration, which is different from the palace in Alhambra. Alhambra just has the bare bones of the walls and all the paint has been removed with time, but what you see in the Madrasah still has the original paint and gives us an idea of what the whole Nasrid Palace would have looked like.

You have to pay 2 euros for a tour that allows you to walk in the room with the facade. The tour also includes some additional rooms and artifacts from when the structure was originally built by Ferdinand II in the 1500s. As the price is low, conveniently located, and typically not crowded it is worth seeing. The Madrasah is located at Calle Oficios, 14, 18001; it is a little difficult to locate so don't hesitate to ask for directions.

Cathedral and Royal Chapel of Granada: It wouldn't be a city in Europe if it didn't have a massive church in the center. Previously the site for the mosque, the construction for the cathedral started in the early 1500s and was completed in 1561. It was originally built to be the final resting place for Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand, whose remains are there to this day. The burial site is in the Royal Chapel, which is connected to the cathedral, not in the cathedral itself. Also part of the Royal Chapel is the Sacristy Museum, which houses artifacts from the Spanish royal family and famous paintings. While walking into the site, make sure you look at the entrance and take in the doors. There is so much detail on the doors that they are a piece of artwork themselves.

The cost to enter the Cathedral is 5 euros and an audio guide is included with the ticket. The church is located right in the city center at Calle Gran Via de Colon 5, 18001. This is a location to keep a close eye on your belongs and be aware of your surroundings.

The Alcaiceria: This was home to the Great Bazaar, which was the original marketplace for the Moors. In the 15th century, this was the area people would go to barter for fabric, specifically silk, and other household goods. It was perfectly located close to the mosque, now the site for the Cathedral, and people would venture after prayer to do their shopping. A fire destroyed the original structure of the market, but a replica was built in the 19th century. Now you will find hundreds of stores selling souvenirs, as the site is specifically geared towards tourists. Even if you aren't looking to shop, it is fun to walk around and take a look at the vendors to get a feeling for the atmosphere of the bazaar. The address for the entrance is Calle Alcaiceria, 1, 18001.

Mirador San Nicolas: This site is not so much historical, but a lookout point that has gorgeous views of Alhambra and is frequented by local musicians. If you have energy for it, walk up to the point as you will pass through fun parts of the town and cute shops along the way. If you don't have energy to walk both up and down, take a bus up to the site, and choose to walk down as it is downhill. 

Mezquita de Granada (Mosque): The construction of this mosque is recent, built in 2003; however, the presence of Muslims in the region has been for hundreds of years. The original mosque was where the Cathedral of Granada is now, and this site was built approximately 500 years after its demolition to replace a missing historical link in Granada. At times there is a mosque representative on the site who is very friendly and helpful with questions. The best part of the mosque is the gardens, which are open to the public. During the right season, the roses will be in bloom and you can get breathtaking views of Alhambra. The mosque is located at the Plaza de San Nicolas, and typically not a crowded part of town. 

Go to a Carmen: A carmen, for the Granada definition, is a house in the Albaician region that traditionally has a garden. These homes have been converted into some of the best restaurants in Granada, and most have views of Alhambra. These are perfect if you are looking for a fancier night out with fantastic food. I would suggest going to Restaurante Las Tomasas, but I'm not sure you can go wrong with any of them.

Flamenco Show: Also in the Albaician region, there are caves and carmons that have a flamenco show. If you are going to Seville on your trip and only want to see one show, definitely save it Seville. However, if you just love flamenco or you are not visiting Seville, catch a show with dinner. There are so many options, and the show will leave you breathless. If you are a true flamenco fanatic, consider going during the International Festival of Music and Dance at Alhambra. You need to book your tickets in advance as it is extremely popular and famous artists perform, but having the opportunity to see an opera or flamenco performance in Alhambra, is a once in a lifetime experience.

Catch a dance in the square: When taking a walk around the town at night, you definitely can't call it a sleepy town! During the summer, it is common for people to get out and cool off by having a party in the square of their choice. Walk around the town at night and don't hesitate to jump in and partake in the fun!

Must eat:

• Bodegas Castaneda: Lively bar with a great fish platter. There are two restaurants with this name, make sure you are at the one on Calle Almireceros 1. 
• Los Diamantes: great tapas bar, grab a seat once you see one open
• Carmen de las Tomasas: More fancy and upscale in the Albaician area
• Poe: Another tapas option

Suggested Place to Stay: NH Collection Victoria: Great hotel that is mid-range price wise.