Amazing and Heavenly Cinque Terre

I wish you could hear the sigh I make whenever someone mentions they are traveling to Cinque Terre (translation, Five Lands). This place is truly a traveler's delight and is one of the few places that truly recharges and inspires me on so many levels. If you're lucky enough to be traveling here, know that there is no "right" way to visit the five towns. You will enjoy it no matter what!

Where is it: Tucked away in the northwest part of Italy, the five towns in order from north to south, are: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore.

Getting there: The best way to get to Cinque Terre is by train. You can travel by car; however, parking and driving on the narrow roads deters even the most confident drivers. If you are flying into Milan, you can easily catch a train that will take approximately 3 hours to get to Monterosso, one of the five towns. Alternatively, you can catch a train from Florence (3 hours), Pisa (1.5 hours), or Rome (4.5 hours). The trains are so easy and routine that you can even arrive from France. To start planning, visit goeuro.com.

.

Things to do:

Travel from town to town: This may seem like an odd suggestion of what to do in the area. Certainly the highlight of most vacations is not the shuffling from one place to the other. That is fair and true for most places; however, Cinque Terre is different. If you are hiking from Monterosso to Vernazza, you are wandering through basil fields and breathing in the wonderful aroma. When you are sitting on the ferry sailing to Riomaggiore, you can imagine what it was like for fishermen back in the day bringing in their haul.

There are three main options to get to the towns: hike, boat, and train. Each have their own pros, and I would suggest doing a cocktail of all three!

• Hike: The five towns are connected by trails and you can walk all the way from Monterosso to Riomaggiore. We stayed in Monterosso and really wanted to hike the main coastal trail (Blue trail or SVA2). We grabbed a breakfast at our favorite bakery and hit the trail before 8. We were told if you were on the trail early enough, you did not have to pay the entrance fee. We were able to pass the ticket booth and get started on our hike with the cool morning breeze. This was also nice as the path between Monterosso and Vernazza is the longest and most hilly part of the hike. Each path has its own character and it is fun to explore and discover each one. We were never bored on any part of the hike. 

My tips and suggestions for the "Blue Trail" are:

• Pack swimming gear: The hike can get hot, and you pass different areas where you can get in the water. You might want to save the swimming stop for Manarola, as it has amazing deep water swimming.
• Be a smart hiker: Pack a hat, enough water, and other items you may need. It is a day hike so you don't need much, but make sure you have the necessary items to keep you hydrated and safe. 
• Enjoy where the path takes you: As I mentioned each path has it is own character. Take it slow and allow yourself to experience each one. The whole trail can be done "quickly," in 4 hours. However the point isn't to race through it. We reserved the whole day for the hike, which allowed us time to take unexpected breaks and get the full experience. 
• Take the train or boat back: There are round trip hike options; however, we decided to take the scenic trail one way, and then the train or boat home. We kept our way back up in the air, as we were going with the flow. It was nice knowing we either had a fast way back, the train, or could cool off in the sea breeze on the boat. Ultimately, we took the train as we were hungry and ready for a shower, saving the boat for the next day.  

• Ferry: In a perfect world, I would save the boat ride for the day after the hike. It was fun catching it from Monterosso and seeing the path I walked the day before from a different perspective. The boat leaves from Monterosso (weather permitting) hourly, generally starting at 10:30 am until 6:00pm. The rates vary depending on which town you want to visit. There is also an option to go to Portovenere, which is beautiful, just not considered one of the "five lands." 

• Train: Save the train for when you are wanting to get somewhere, and somewhere fast. The towns are approximately 5 minutes apart when traveling by train. There are options to buy a Cinque Terre Treno Multi-Service Card. We had crunched the numbers, and decided that we weren't going to take enough train rides and hike on the same day for it to pay off. At the time we traveled, we would've had to hike and take three different train rides i n one day to break even. However, visit the site and see if there is an option that works best with your itinerary. 

Visit the Towns: Like the paths in between, each town has its own character and is worth a visit. It’s great to wander in each town with no expectations and see if you get the "vibe" the town is known for. Here’s a summary of each town's reputation:

• Monterosso al Mare: I’ve heard this described as a resort town; however, I would argue that it’s not as commercial as other resort areas. It has a large beach, which is fantastic after a day of hiking, and a great place to finish the day with its nightlife. The town is the perfect mixture of old and new, as it has tried to keep its charm while rebuilding after pirate raids, floods, and bombing during WWII. If you are wanting more than a relaxing day on the beach, Monterosso has several sights to see such as historic churches, WWII bunkers, and a castle!
  

• Vernazza: My favorite part of this town was sitting on the rocks close to the harbor watching the port activity. I could spend hours soaking in the sun and watching the boats rock in the wake. The town is small, but has all the necessities (ice cream and cafes).There is also a castle, Castello Doria, in Vernazza, and the hike up provides breathtaking views of the town. This is probably the most popular town of the five, as it has the reputation of being the most authentic. Due to this, hotels and rooms can be difficult to find, so book early if you want to stay in this particular town. 

  

• Corniglia: I feel like Corniglia is commonly the forgotten town of the five. Maybe it is because it isn't located on the water and is high up on the cliffs. However, due to this, it is calmer and less tread upon. I like that Corniglia is quieter and find it easier to talk to locals who are working there. If you are up for a bit of a hike down (and back up), the beach is more remote and can be a great place to relax after a busy day.  

• Manarola: The most popular part of Manarola has to be the Punta Bonfiglio. Here you can get a breathtaking view of the town, water, and truly capture the "Cinque Terre Spirit." If you are doing the Blue Trail hike you will run upon it and not be disappointed. However, don't get your picture and head on to the next town; Manarola has a lot to offer! There are amazing and flourishing vineyards that hug that town which provide a great place to rest.

• Riomaggiore: There is no denying that this is the fisherman's town. We arrived by boat which puts you out at the bottom of a steep hill, and you can see where the fishermen pull up their boats and unload their haul. Just a few steps off the boat, you will start to see amazing hole in the wall places selling the freshest fish. We grabbed some and did the hike up the hill to the San Giovanni Church. This provides amazing views and has a fun garden you can walk through. 

Must Eat:

• Il Pescato Cucinato, Riomaggiore: Great fresh fish where the husband and wife work as a team. She cooks the fish that he brings in!

• Wonderland Bakery, Monterosso: ·  This is truly a Wonderland, as I commonly dream of this place! We stopped every morning and made friends with the owner. He would explain each treat to us while we sipped coffee and made sure we grabbed seconds before heading out for the day.

• Ristorante Belevdere, Monterosso: This is the place that introduced my husband and I to "squid ink pasta." It was the most amazing meal, and we still talk about it to this day. The prices are affordable, portions are large, and the view is amazing. This is my number one suggestion for all the restaurants in Cinque Terre.  

Where to Stay: Albergo al Carugio We really enjoyed our stay at Albergo al Carugio and the owner was very hospitable and provided some great insights on the area. The rooms are fairly basic, but have everything you need, and this is what we wanted since we knew we be spending time outdoors.

Cheap Flights from Seattle: December 20, 2017

As a Seattle native I'm constantly looking out for cheap flights and deals that are out of SeaTac. It drives me nuts when I get a cheap flight alert, and it is out of NYC or LAX. That doesn't help me! What are the best deals leaving Seattle?!

Best Flight as of 12/20/17

To: Paris (CDG) roundtrip one stop

Price: Starting at $505 (normally $900)

When: Early to mid March

Airline: Multiple

Example: Mar 4 - Mar 14 This is with British Airlines! 

What to Do: Visit the Eiffel Tower, eat croissants, and pretend to be a fashionable Parisian!

There are still great deals to London! Check out this earlier posting for more details. 

As a heads up, these are my traveling preferences:

• I like non-stop to one layover only. More than two I normally arrive a very angry person who has lost faith in humanity, so I keep it to none or one. 
• I tend to travel with a carry on only, so watch out for extra bag fees as I don't include those in the price. 
• I'm open to all airlines and typically pick the cheapest; however, if the price difference is small or the same, I will pick Alaska as that is my preferred airline. 

Cheap Flights from Seattle: December 12, 2017

As a Seattle native I'm constantly looking out for cheap flights and deals that are out of SeaTac. It drives me nuts when I get a cheap flight alert, and it is out of NYC or LAX. That doesn't help me! What are the best deals leaving Seattle?!

Best Flight as of 12/12/17

To: London (LGW) roundtrip nonstop

Price: Starting at $410 (normally $800)

When: Late January, February

Airline: Norwegian Air

Example: Jan 21 - Jan 31 This is nonstop! 

What to Do: Visit Buckingham Palace, meet the Queen, and finally get your Hogwarts letter!

As a heads up, these are my traveling preferences:

• I like non-stop to one layover only. More than two I normally arrive a very angry person who has lost faith in humanity, so I keep it to none or one. 
• I tend to travel with a carry on only, so watch out for extra bag fees as I don't include those in the price. 
• I'm open to all airlines and typically pick the cheapest; however, if the price difference is small or the same, I will pick Alaska as that is my preferred airline. 

Seville

This city is amazing! If there was one city in Europe I would move to it would be Seville. It is the perfect size; it isn't a large city, but isn't too small either. The people are so friendly, the food is fantastic, and there are endless things to do. If you are lucky enough to be in Seville towards the end of April, do not miss the Feria de Abril! This happens two weeks after Easter, and runs for a week. The best description I have heard for it is that it is like being in a time warp. The city shuts down, everyone dresses in their best flamenco dresses and suits, and the streets are filled with a party. Seriously Americans, we have been doing 4th of July wrong this whole time. The Sevillians really know how to celebrate a tradition and throw a party.

Where is it: Seville is in Southern Spain, in the the Andalucia region.

Getting there: Seville is another popular transportation hub, and is probably most easily accessible by train or bus if you are already in Spain. The airport is smaller so connections might be more difficult. We came from Heathrow and were surprised there wasn't a direct flight. We had to make a connection through Madrid, but hopefully the airport you are coming from will have a direct flight option. Always a good site when trying to figure out how to get somewhere is goeuro.com.

Things to do:
Bull fighting museum: I knew before I left I didn't want to see a bullfight; however, I respected that this was a tradition in the culture and was interested in learning more about it...from afar. I wanted to know the history behind this tradition and get a feeling for what it was like. This tour was the perfect combination of that. We purchased our tickets on site, and told the cashier that we wanted the English tour. Our tour guide was fantastic, giving the tour both in Spanish and English. She would let the non-Spanish speakers quietly look around while she explained to the others, then when it was time for the English portion, we would switch. She did a fantastic job explaining the tradition, the different bullfighters, and the famous bulls. The best part was when you get to go outside and see the ring close up. It is so bright and colorful that it seems like a piece of artwork itself. The tour was approximately 20 minutes, and the cost of a ticket was 8 euros. The location is Paseo de Cristobal Colon, close to the water.

Barrio Santa Cruz and Flamenco show: Another culture experience is the Barrio Santa Cruz and seeing a flamenco show. Now a tourist area, it previously was the Jewish quarter of the city. This neighborhood has seen tough times as Jews were expelled and persecuted in the 1400s. In the 18th century the synagogue that was close by was remodeled into the now Church of Bartholomew. It is a great place to stroll and enjoy the town. As it is a tourist attraction, the restaurants are hit or miss, but there are certainly some great eats here! (see below) Also if you are interested, this is one of the best places to catch a traditional Seville flamenco show. We went to La Casa del Flamenco and really enjoyed our experience. There are only two rows of chairs, which allows you to have an up close experience. There is traditionally someone outside a few hours before a show who will give you a tour and explanation of the dances that will be performed.

Real Alcazar and Gardens: Get ready to come with a packed lunch as it seems this site never ends! This truly could be an all day event as there is so much to see and take in. This fort was originally built in the 10th century by the Moors, as you will see their artistic influence throughout the palace. This gives you a feeling and impression of the Alhambra Palace. The site was owned by the Romans for awhile after they conquered the Moors in 712, and then officially became the Spanish palace in 1248, when Fernando III conquered the city. More construction began by the Spaniards, and is largely what we see today. This site is still used as the Royal Palace of the Spanish family, and became a World Heritage Site in 1987.

I would skip the audioguide and look up some interesting facts before visiting. The space is so large that you will start to get tired of listening to all the different checkpoints, and probably remember 10% of what you heard. It is better to walk around and just enjoy the beauty of the architecture and gardens. A general admission ticket costs 9.50 euros; however, the site is free on Monday afternoons.
















Church of the Savior: If you haven't gotten your fill on churches, you will want to visit this one as some consider it even better than the Seville Cathedral. However, if your getting sick of religious sites this is one you can skip. This church began as many do in Spain, being built on top of a previous mosque. Works were done to change the mosque to be a Christian religious site, and was later decided to tear down the whole site and build a new. The new construction and largely what we see today was done in the 18th century. Inside you will see 14 altarpieces and a gorgeous dome.

A cool tip is you can buy a joint ticket for this site and the Seville Cathedral and save a couple of dollars. The ticket for the Cathedral, bell tower, and this Church is 8 euros, so essentially you will get the Church of the Savior for free. If you just want to visit this location, the ticket is 3 euros. The church's address is Pl. del Salvador, 41004 Sevilla, Spain.

Seville Cathedral and Giralda: Also registered a World Heritage Site in 1987, this cathedral was finished in 1507. It was built on top of the former mosque. The previous mosque was built in the 1200 century and was used by the Moors, who occupied Seville at the time. When Ferdinand III took over, one of his first orders was to change the mosque to be better situated for Christians. This included building walls to divide the space into separate chapels.  In 1401 it was decided that the whole mosque structure needed to be torn down, and a new cathedral should be built. Luckily the original minaret was kept since it was converted into a bell tower. When you are in the site, you can walk up the original slope to the top of the tower for some fantastic views.

Tickets for both the cathedral and bell tower are 8 euros, but is free with a Sevilla Card. Check out more on the Sevilla card; we found that it didn't help us save any money and it was more economical to purchase the sites separately. The location of the church is close to the Barrio Santa Cruz at Av. de la Constitucion.

Plaza de Espana and Parque de Maria Luisa: The Plaza de Espana is a place you can go with little to no historical knowledge and enjoy just as much as the rest of the folks there. So if you are getting a little tired of packing your brain with knowledge, take a break and visit this park and plaza. The park originated first in 1911 to be a public park for all to enjoy. The plaza was built in 1928 for the World's Fair that was a year later. The purpose was to be a showcase for historical moments throughout Spain, hence the name. When walking around you will see tiles that have events and dates. Some fun facts are that several movies have been filmed here, including Star Wars, Lawrence of Arabia, and The Dictator. The plaza is located at Av de Isabel la Catolica, and make sure you enjoy a walk throughout the different sections of the park.

Metropol Parasol: This site could be another great break from historical data if you are in the need. This wooden structure was built in 2011 with some controversy. You will notice that it has a very modern look, which was not accepted by most of the locals. While construction was in process, the workers found ruins below that are believed to be back from the Moorish and Roman reign. This stopped construction and permits and other necessary paperwork was needed to complete the building. You can visit the ruins below, but the main highlight is going up the elevator to take in the views of the city. You will walk along ramps throughout the structure to see for miles. I would suggest visiting during "happy hour," as your elevator ticket includes a free drink at the top, where you can sit and enjoy the sun setting over the city.

Plaza Nueva: We have heard a lot about King Ferdinand III, who took over the city of Seville in 1248. Well if you want to meet him, make sure you visit Plaza Nueva. This area once was the site for a convent that was occupied from 1270 - 1840. Now a plaza, there is the town hall, the Hotel Inglaterra, and a statue of King Ferdinand III. This plaza is used for peaceful protests outside the townhall and for dances. It is a fun place to visit and people watch. You don't have to spend a lot of time here, and once you've had your fill, venture off for some of the best tapas bars. (see below)

Triana: Triana is a neighborhood right across the Isabel II bridge over the Guadalquivir River. It is known for its great food, fun farmers market, and fantastic pottery shops. You can go for more historical sites and monuments as there are many; however, I found Triana as a breath of fresh air where I can go experience the Seville culture. Make sure you got to the Mercado de Triana and graze from vendor to vendor picking out your favorite food. Then explore the streets right over the Isabel II bridge, popping in to look at all the pottery. I found the prices to be very reasonable here, and it is a great place to get souvenirs for yourself or others. If you have the energy and capacity for more history, look into going to the Moorish Revival Chapel, Church of Santa Ana, and Spanish Inquisition museum.

Feria de Abril: I cannot say enough how much I love the Fair in Seville. It was truly a once in lifetime experience that I think back on weekly. It begins two weeks after the Holy Week (Easter), and runs for a week. It begins with a parade of the must beautiful carriages taking people in traditional dress throughout the streets to the bullring. At the fairgrounds there are rows of casetas, which are tents for families and friends. You have to be invited inside, but once you are you can partake in the dancing, drinking of the traditional drink rebuijto, and laughter. The whole time, there are carriages and horses riding around the fairground taking in the different parties. This is a grand way of showing off your dress and wealth (as these are very expensive to rent), but this is quickly forgotten once you are on one. We were lucky enough to be invited on, and the view and experience of being in a carriage is amazing. Once you have had our fill of casetas, you can venture further back in the fairgrounds for rides and traditional fair food. Once you are done, head back to party late into the night and repeat all over again the next day. Several businesses are closed during this time so you might want to be in Seville a little before or after to be able to enjoy the full experience of the city.










Flamenco Dance Museum: If you are in love with flamenco and the dresses as much as me, this is a must see. Shows are available here as well, and allows the opportunity to see some famous performers. Check out the website for more details on the upcoming performances. The museum itself offers an interactive experience that brings together the dance, singing, and guitar and allows a deeper understanding of the art. To visit the museum is 10 euros, but to both visit the museum and see a show is 24 euros. If you are already considering doing both this might be the best package for you!

Must Eat:

• La Corona: tapas bar near Plaza Nueva
• Becerrita: tapas bar near Plaza Nueva
• Mamarracha: tapas bar near Plaza Nueva
• Bodega Santa Cruz: in Barrio Santa Cruz, great for tapas and a fun experience!
• Pepe Hillo: close to the bullring and known by locals for having the best ox tail, a Seville delicacy

Suggested Stay: The Hotel Inglaterra is mentioned above and is an over 100 year old, 4 star hotel. If you are looking for that authentic experience, this could be it for you! However, Seville is a larger city and has plenty of AirBNB options that are great if you are travelling with groups.